This dish was inspired by 16th- and 17th-century Italian recipes, which often use citrus fruit unpeeled, a reminder of the combination of sour pulp, bitter pith and aromatic peel are all essential to the enjoy of the fruit, cooked or raw. The transformation of the combative garlic into a soft bitter-sweet accent to the chicken is magical. This recipe was given to me by my Yorkshire granny, Gillian Riley, who adopted me at the tender age of thirty-six. I've been thirty-six every since . . .